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Maria's Self-Drafted Dual Purpose Trousers

Happy festive season everyone! I’m kicking off my festive makes this year with a pair of skinny-flare trousers. My main aim with this design was to make something completely work appropriate, but with a change of top or shoes (or even just lippy) can take you straight from work out for the night.

I never tend to buy patterns (unless they are really unusual! Or vintage.) so in this blog I’m going to try and guide you through how you can take your favourite pair of trousers and use those as your pattern!

To start with I took a pair of trousers I have been wearing literally twice a week to work. Honestly I’m sure people are sick of seeing me in them. They are a stretch legging type trouser and I am going to use them as my pattern base. However I don’t just want to replicate these because while browsing Pinterest I seen the most gorgeous outfit that featured a skintight trouser with a slight flare at the hem and I need them in my life. So I’m going to modify my pattern to look like those! (See sketch above) I thought at first they would look best with a paperbag waist but I scrapped this idea quickly.

  1. To get your front pattern piece you want to grab your favourite trousers and fold them so you are looking at the front, pinch in the centre of the crotch (where the four seams meet) and pull this out. Lay this flat and smooth it out, trace it and youl have your front pattern piece!
  2. Repeat for the back

Super dooooooper easy right! But here are a few things to bear in mind:

  1. You need to add seam and hem allowances ***CRUCIAL
  2. The fabric of your favourite trouser. E.g. If they are stretch; the pattern you sketched out will not work in non stretch! Think about it- the pattern will have been made slimmer to accompany the stretch look.
  3. Check the waist, seat and wide hip measurement against your actual measurements to make sure they will definitely fit.

After I traced out around my favourite trousers I extended the length and flared out the hem from the knee for the look I wanted. And they looked a little something like this:

My pattern was shaped in mega at the waist because I have a small waist in comparison to my wide hip. If I was to make this pattern up in anything that wasn’t stretch I would need to adjust it to have an extra inch at the side leg seams, but for this make I wanted that skin tight look.

I used the ‘Moss green stretch viscose’ as Nicki recommended it. She used it to sew up a pair of the Named Clothing Astrid Wrap Pants and as soon as I seen how they looked I knew I had to use the fabric. The colour is one of my favourite colours ever, definitely fits into my wardrobe and also gives off some festive vibes. I honestly love it- great quality, forgiving fabric to work with and holds its shape well. I used about 120cm length to finish of my trousers.

The waistband was an extra 3 inches grown onto the waist on the pattern, which I then overlocked and folded over. I stitched in a piece of elastic that was an inch less than the measurement on the waist, just so they sat tight to the waist. Without this the waist would tend to gape.

Finishing wise, I overlocked all finished seams, pressed in a front line, top edge stitched the front and back crotch and double stitched the hem. I did not add a zip shield because I didn’t want to bulk out that side of the trousers as they were so tight. I should also mention I stitched up in grey for a bit of contrast.

Really happy with how these turned out and now I can stop wearing my other trousers so much because these are my new faves!

Maria xx

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Comments

Love that you draft your own patterns and dont buy them. So clever. Thanks for sharing. Sally x
The fabric looks amazing! Fab post. xx
I’ve always been nervous of drafting my own patterns but you make it look so simple! It’s super clever and I definitely want to try this one day! Trousers look amazing on you, gorgeous colour too! X
Wow you made that look so easy! I’vebeen thinking more and more about trying to copy and draft from some rtw clothes and reading this has definitely made me think its a step nearer.
Brilliant! Always a dilemma what to wear to work when you have an occasion to go to immediately after :) Trousers look lovely and while admittedly I'm still yet to sew my first pair of trousers, I may just jump straight in and start with a self-drafted pair xxx
A good step-by-step guide with some useful tips along the way.