Do you fancy a last minute quick summer sew? Look no further than the Sew Over It - Ultimate Shorts! I feel that this variation of the Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers pattern often gets forgotten about, it's really all about the trousers as they are such a quick and easy trouser pattern to tackle - as trouser patterns go! However, I have a lot of love for these little shorts and I am going to show you a cute summer variation, how easy they are to sew and how they can fit into your summer wardrobe.
The fabric I picked is this gorgeous purple and white oriental fan fabric, it's lovely and bright and will go with lots of summery tops I've got to see me through some sunny days. It's light to medium weight with a little bit of structure so it will be nice and stable to wear for shorts, whilst still being comfortable for moving about in.
The Ultimate Shorts variation is fitted closely over the waist and hips, with an invisible zip closure at the side seam and turn up cuffs at the hem. I also wanted to add a waistband to these which there is a tutorial for on their blog. It's super easy to do and is basically just a rectangle of fabric that you cut yourself based on your waist measurement and how wide you want the waistband to be! I've made this pattern before without a waistband and these are fine but I find the facings peek out and have stretched slightly at the zip seam, so I thought putting a waistband on would make this area much more sturdy.
I cut out a size 8 which is my normal size for Sew Over It, the fabric was very easy to cut out, iron and sew, so from this point of view it was a breeze. Because the fabric had a directional print I just had to make sure all the pattern pieces were facing the right way up so the fans didn't look upside down! The waistband I cut out was 8cm wide by 84cm long, I basically wanted it to be about 3cm wide and then just measured around just below my waist to get the length. It was too long but it was easy to just trim off the excess. I also interfaced this waistband piece so it held its shape better.
The shorts are very simple to sew together, if you're worried about the fit I would recommend firstly measuring the distance between your crotch and your waist on your front and back and then comparing this to the relevant front or back pattern pieces. This will give you an idea of whether you need to shorten or lengthen the pieces at all. I have made these before so knew that they were a little long in the body for me so I decided to shorten the paper pattern piece by 2cm at the notch point. There's no 'shorten/lengthen' line here but if you draw a straight line across from the notch on the side seam to the crotch curve, you can then use this to add or minus extra, and then just redraw the curve in.
I would also recommend tacking all the side seams and crotch seam together with a long machine basting stitch first, then try them on inside out and you can see what adjustments you need to make and either let the seams out a little or bring them in more. I used a heat removable pen for this which is great because you can draw in exactly where you need the seam to be and then run your iron over the fabric when you're done and it vanishes completely! (Please do a test first though as fabrics all behave differently!!)
Once you're happy with the fit of them, you can then either add a facing or a waistband to finish them at the waist. Both are fine but I went for the waistband option this time. It went together very easily but it stuck out quite a bit away from my body so I nipped a little triangle off the front and back centre so it fitted better. A curved waistband would be the ideal solution but you can see what I did below to give a similar effect.
Although the waistband is not completely straight at the front I don't really mind very much as they fit nicely now!
Lastly, you turn up the hems of the shorts to get this little cuff effect, this is very easy again to do but as there are quite a few turns involved - it makes the hem much, much tighter! So allow plenty of room here for turning and even consider going up a few sizes for the bottom 8cm of the pattern, taking a smaller seam allowance or just drawing in extra allowance before you cut the fabric. Mine are a little tight but they will stretch a bit over time hopefully.
They look great paired with a plain co-coordinating top and a denim jacket!
Overall I love these little jazzy shorts, the fabric will go with lots of colours in my summer wardrobe but I think they'd even look great in the full trouser option! You can easily fit this shorts pattern into less than a metre of fabric too so it's great as a stash buster. This pattern is perfect for a cotton or linen with or without stretch and Sewalicious have many gorgeous options to choose from!